Top Tips for Bouldering on Southern Sandstone.

In this blog, I will guide you through the key points of the Code of Practice for bouldering and demonstrate the best practice for bouldering on Southern Sandstone along with some of my own personal tricks.

This information does not serve to replace the Code of Practice or any information found in guidebooks. Make sure to take the time to read and understand the Code of Practice before going climbing. Check out southernsandstoneclimbs.co.uk for more information.

About the rock.

First of all, Southern Sandstone is a soft rock type. Not too soft that it’s unclimbable but much softer than the sandstone which bears it’s closest resemblance, found in Fontainebleau, France. It’s composition consists of a thin outer crust and a soft, sandy core. Once the crust is damaged, exposing the softer layers underneath, rapid erosion occurs and the rock cannot be replaced.

Evidence of bouldering popularity can be found at most Sandstone crags in the form of broken or worn down holds, chalk plastered walls and sandy beaches under the most popular bouldering venues. Although a lot of this erosion has occurred gradually over time, every climber has a responsibility to carefully manage their impact on the rock to prevent increased levels erosion.

What can’t you do?

• Do not climb on wet or damp rock. This is the quickest way to destroy a boulder problem. If the problem you wish to try has damp holds then find something else to climb or don’t climb at all.
• Do not climb on damaged rock. The same goes for already broken holds. The tell tale sign of damage rock is when it appears a lighter colour than the surrounding rock and it is continuously sandy to the touch. You’ll only make the hold worse and it wont be very nice to climb on anyway. Just move on.
• No brushes. This will quickly ruin holds if done repeatedly. Some softer brushes are accepted but if you don’t know how to use them on Sandstone specifically it’s best not to use them at all. I prefer to use a small towel to clean holds with a light touch. This is a common practice.
• No tick-marks! This is definitely not cool! Tick-marks are highly frowned upon on Sandstone and removing them has to be done carefully to prevent damaging the rock.
• No gardening. Sandstone’s unique environment hosts some protected rare plant species so please don’t remove any vegetation.
• Don’t climb in unpermitted areas. Some crags like Eridge Rocks Nature Reserve are SSSIs and have off limit sections or a complete ban of climbing. Access might not always be granted to crags that are on private land and this must be respected. Keep up to date on access of crags you wish to visit on southernsandstoneclimbs.co.uk

What should you do as best practice?

• Keep your shoes clean! Sand and dirt are easily picked up on your climbing shoes which damages the rock when you place them on a foot hold and increases the chances of your feet slipping. You must make sure your shoes are squeaky clean before they touch the rock and do not grind them into foot-holds. This will benefit both you and the rock. Most bouldering mats come with carpets but it’s a great idea to bring an extra carpet and/or a small towel to the crag.
• Reduce ground erosion by using bouldering mats… and keep them clean too! You will notice the ground is soft and sandy under the most popular bouldering areas so please bring your bouldering mats to prevent this from getting worse. I’ve seen a lot of sandy bouldering mats at the crag. If your mats are sandy you might as well be just stepping off the ground. Make sure you keep them free of sand if you’re to keep you feet clean! This is best done with a small towel.
• Keep your chalk use to a minimum. Be careful how you use it and remember – Sandstone is not an indoor climbing wall! If you do use chalk, wipe and blow off any excess and remember its purpose is only to dry sweat from your hands. It is worth noting that climbing could be banned at crags with sensitive access if chalk is overused. The preferred practice on Sandstone is that climbers don’t use chalk. So leave your chalk bag at home if you want to be cool on Southern Sandstone!
• If you need to clean a hold, use a small towel, not a brush. Your faithful little rag comes in handy once again! Give the rock a whip or a wipe to clean holds of sand or excess chalk. These small towels will easily get sandy and damp if you leave them lying around so make sure you don’t let them get too dirty. Keep them partnered with a carpet to prevent them from soaking up any damp on the floor too.

So what should you bring to the crag?

• Bouldering mats provide a nice soft landing and prevent ground erosion under popular walls, just remember to keep them free of sand!
• A carpet and a towel to clean your feet, your mats and the rock instead of a brush, but take care in doing this and rememebr, no gardening.
• Your climbing shoes and chalk but use only as much as you need if any at all. In my opinion, both are optional!

Don’t forget to read the Code of Practice before going climbing and keep up to date with crag access at southernsandstoneclimbs.co.uk